With the end of this month, it's also the end of the hairy crab season with the most famous ones coming from 阳澄湖 (Yangcheng Lake). This would be an example of the East-West divide. Hairy crabs are considered a delicacy in China and the rest of Asia, but are virtually despised in the US. But since this blog isn't about the US, here are some pictures about this delicious dish.
First, the thing to remember is that unlike most crabs in the US, the most sought after part of the crab is actually not the meat in the legs, but rather what's underneath the shell and between the legs.
The crabs generally are stored alive, but wrapped tightly to avoid movement and pinching.
After being steamed, they change from the darkish green to a bright orange.
Typical utensils include scissors and a small spoon to scoop out the tasty morsels of the crab, but you don't always get them.
The fresh crabs are harvested from containers sitting in the lake (or taken from a refrigerator like the picture above if you're not near a lake).
Once they come out, you snap off the string that was used to hold the crab together.
Notice that the claws usually have some sort of putty that prevents them from snapping when they are alive. Also notice the hair on the legs - obviously, that's how where they get their English name.
Usually, when you order these crabs, you buy them in pairs - one male and one female. To tell the difference - the females have a large triangle-shape underneath the shell while the males are much more narrower. The reason why you notice the difference is, as one writer noted, "Male crabs have yellow fat and more meat while the female has more yellow fat, lesser meat, plus the red coral or the prized aligue." I think most people prefer eating the males rather than the females - personally, it's because the female eggs get too dry and hard after being steamed.
I didn't get a chance to take a step-by-step instruction on how to eat the hairy crab (as my hands were quite messy in the process and didn't feel like dirtying up my camera!). But here are some sites with instructions and even pictures (must have been a starving photographer).
1 - SHmag.cn (step-by-step with pictures!)
2 - Shanghai Daily (pictures then instructions)
3 - China.org.cn
4 - Expat Singapore (see, throughout Asia)
Basically, once you rip through the shells, this is what you end up with:
The odd thing about this dish was that even in China, the crab was considered a pest. One story that I found on the web stated:
People found a strange and terrible kind of "pests with crusts" in the fields eating grains. They had sharp chelae and legs that could injure the farmers.
Some were bitten by the pests and people closed their doors before sunset for fear of attack.
However, a bold farmer could not bear them any longer and sprayed a basin of boiling water on the pests.
Suddenly, the pests stopped being pests and the green crust turned to gold.
Some brave farmers took them back home and stewed them. A strong aroma came out of the pests, which enticed one man to try one after peeling the crust away.
He found it was the most delicious food he had ever eaten in his entire life.
The news spread quickly, and people loved the taste of the pests and caught them with a view to eating them. Since then, the harmful pests have become a delicacy.
If you feel adventurous, give it a go as it's quite delicious.
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